The western boot is the peak of the bootmaker’s art. It fits correctly on its own. To be sure the boot fits properly, check these areas:

Lizard, Alligator, Snakeskin

These leathers are usually drier than cowhides and they all have an irregular surface. They are more vulnerable to dust settling in the creases and doing damage sooner. This means they need conditioning more often to prevent splitting. The very fact that they have a hard surface and look so pretty makes it hard to get much conditioner down into the skin. So… thinner coats more often are what you must plan on. These boots can dry out just sitting in the closet.

Sharkskin

Because sharkskins are the harvest of many people in many different places you can experience a great deal of difference from skin to skin. This is a very tough, scuff resistant leather but it can dry out. When it does dry out it splits and tears. You should give these boots a little extra oil and conditioner to keep the leather soft and flexible. Put a little extra oil around the edge where the sole is sewn to the foot.

Oil Tanned Work Leathers

These boots have a lot of extra oils put into them from the start, but because of wear, the oils get pulled out. So take a little more care. You wouldn’t work a horse and not feed it. Here you don’t have to worry about a good heavy coat of oil. These leathers are prepared to soak oil up. If they get really soaked in snow, water or what have you, clean them off and oil them then and there. It will slow down the drying process but also helps to keep the oil down deep where it belongs. Besides, in these boots you don’t care as much about a pretty shine as toughness.

Goatskin, Kidskin, Elk and Deer

These leathers can be treated the same as regular calf or cowhide. However, they are lighter weight, thinner and softer. They cannot take rough wear. They crease more sharply and the dirt in the creases does more damage. They should be cared for more often.

Ostrich

This is truly leather fit for a king and should be treated as such. While it does not need any extra special attention it would be a sin to neglect something so elegant. If you will just give it reasonable amounts of care you will be richly rewarded.

Boot Care

Shinning your boots takes two steps. First apply boot cream, then a boot wax. Select both in colors that match the leather. Rub in the boot cream, particularly over scratches and scuff marks. Let the cream dry and brush. Then apply a thin coat of wax and brush to a high gloss. The wax helps protect the leather against spotting.

Most spots and marks can be removed with a pencil eraser. If soda or alcohol has dirtied your boots, make a small solution of equal parts of water and vinegar and wipe them clean.

Oil spots can usually be removed with a commercial spray, or a bit of rubber cement can be allowed to harden over the stain. Rub to remove both cement and the stain.

Never let boots dry in direct heat. Try to give your boots a rest by wearing them every other day. It is a good idea to store boots on boot trees, as they help with moisture absorption and retail the shape of the boot.

Exotic leathers do not require exotic treatment. However since exotics have deeper textures and harder surfaces, dirt and dust cause more damage much sooner. Wipe more frequently and use a little cream and conditioner. Apply in several thin layers rather than all at once.

Easy Care

Taking care of your western boots is easy – as easy as picking up a soft cloth. Wipe away dust and dirt frequently to add to your boot's life. Dust is small and light, but caught in the creases of the leather as you walk it acts like sandpaper, cutting down on the luster and life of your boots.

Loose dirt or dried mud that does not come clean with a dusting should be wiped away with a damp cloth. Occasionally use a leather oil conditioner. You can let it dry on the boots - conditioner oils are good for the leather. Saddle soap is different – it should be wiped off wet. Never let saddle soap dry on boots.

Boots meet rain and sun repeatedly. Leather conditioner used occasionally restores lost oil to the leather.

History of Western Boots

Western boots are unique footgear. They were born on the American plains. Though they have spread throughout the world, Western boots developed from the cowboy’s way of living.

The pointed toe helped him find the stirrup as he prepared to mount a prancing horse. When he swung his leg up and over, the tapered toe easily picked up the other stirrup, giving him instant control of his mount.

High underslung heels added to his safety. The cowboy worked on a high, unsteady perch with his horse likely to rear and bolt at any time. The high, underslung heel kept his foot from slipping through the stirrup. It also prevented his being hung up and dragged if he was thrown from a frightened horse. When he dismounted, the leather heel let him dig in for solid footing.

The sturdy leather sole enabled the rider to “feel” his stirrup as he rode. Whether he was mounted or afoot, his feet were protected by the leather sole.

The high tough, leather shafts shielded his legs from barbed wire, briar and brambles, even as they kept brush, leaves and pebbles from getting inside his boots. As he rode, his legs continually rubbed or slapped against the side of the horse with only the leather bootshafts absorbing the punishment.

Even the row on row of fancy stitching had its solidly practical function. The stitching reinforced the shaft, keeping the leather from blousing down the leg.